Sounio & the Tempe of Poseidon

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Hey guys!


Last Saturday I took a day trip to Cape Sounio, to see the infamous Temple of Poseidon!

I actually attempted to make this trip on Friday, but due to complications, I didn’t ever make it there. Actually, all my plans were pretty much thwarted this weekend. But it’s ok, because the way things turned out in the end were even better than what I had planned, I’m sure!

What I really wanted to do this weekend was take a 2 day trip up to Meteora, which is a mountainous area known for its beautiful views and scenic monasteries, which sit high on the rocky cliffs. But when I got to the train station on Friday to get a ticket, they told me they were sold out.

So I was pretty bummed, but decided to salvage at least the day by taking a trip to Sounio to see the Temple of Poseidon. So I walked all the way to the bus stop (it is a special bus stop for special orange buses that travel all the way to Attica.—Sounio itself is about a 2 hour bus ride.) My guide book told me the buses to Attica left every hour, on the half hour mark. So at noon, I walked down to the bus stop, but got lost on the way and ended up getting to the bus stop 10 minutes too late. So I walked around, exploring Syntagma while waiting for the next bus, and when 1:20 rolled around I headed back to wait at the bus stop. But at 1:50...I was still waiting at the bus stop. And then, it started to rain. (And ironically I had checked the weather that morning, which said sunshine was on the way! So I purposefully took my umbrella OUT of my backpack before the trip! Ah!)

So I waited about 15 more minutes at the bus stop, and then gave up. But as I headed back towards home I passed Syntagma Square, and it turns out there was a protest going on, which had the entire square blocked up! In Greece, it is a very popular thing to “demonstrate” when you are unhappy with something. Even school kids can stage a demonstration if they are, say, unhappy with their teachers. It is really quite a site. Although, I couldn’t understand what exactly it was they were protesting (I couldn’t read their signs and didn’t want to ignite anyone’s passions by asking…) But it made me think on the way home… These people are probably protesting to bring about some sort of recognition and change, presumably about the government (for they were posted very close to the parliament building.) But by sitting in the streets and clogging up the system, the only people they were inconveniencing were their fellow Athenians! And what good does that do?

Anyway, by this time it was almost 2 pm, and it was pouring. So I walked all the way home in the rain, and decided to stay in all day, and watch The Lord of The Rings! (hehe)

So when I woke up Saturday and the sun was shining, I was pretty excited. I made sure to get to the bus stop on time this time, and although the bus was late (by about 15-20 minutes! Ugh!), it did come, and I was on my way to Sounio!

The bus ride wasn’t bad—and at times it was very scenic. We took a road out of Athens and headed right along the coast, and passed through several little villages. Again, it seems to be a reoccurring theme in Greece to have huge buses navigating narrow spaces and twisty coastal roads at ridiculous speeds—but I guess I’m getting used to it, because I didn’t seem to mind.





When we arrived at the site, I headed directly up to the Temple of Poseidon. The entire site is actually comprised of a few different areas: The Temple of Poseidon, the propylaion (entrance hall), stoa, and the remnants of the fortification wall. And down a little hill right next to the official site, there are also the remains of a Temple to Athena.

The Temple of Poseidon was a pretty amazing site.

First of all, it is absolutely huge, and even after all these years and decay, it is still a very humbling site to see. Only 15/16 of the original 34 columns are still standing, but it is still a very imposing presence. Pair that with the fact that it was not a bright sunny day,
(but actually rather overcast and due to the location, very windy), I couldn’t help but feel a kind of ominous presence in the air.







The location of the Temple was perfectly chosen. The ancient Greeks sure knew how to pick a spot, that’s for sure!




It is settled on the top of a hill, overlooking the sea, and the view was just amazing. Even on such a foggy day, you could still appreciate how vast and intimidating the sea would have been to the Ancient Greeks.





A little mythology lesson: Poseidon, as most of you know, was the god of the sea. But he also governs earthquakes and the weather (including the wind). Thus, for the Ancient Greeks (and even many modern Greeks today), who relied so heavily on the sea for so many things, it is easy to see how he would become such an important deity to them, and why they would honor him in such a colossal way, at this particular spot.

Another reason they may have chosen this particular spot for the temple, (other than its amazing view), is because of the body of water it overlooks. For that particular stretch of water was known to be particularly treacherous for boats of all sorts, even in Ancient times. ( It was mentioned in Homer’s epic poems as a very dangerous pass for ships.) And the site itself is even referenced by name in Homer’s Odyssey--as the place where Menelaus stopped during his return trip from Troy to bury one of his men.

Lord Byron also immortalized the site in his own way, writing in his infamous epic Don Juan:

“Place me on Sunium’s marbled steep,
Where nothing, save the waves and I,
May hear our mutual murmurs sweep;
There, swan-like, let me sing and die:
A land of slaves shall ne’er be mine—
Dash down yon cup of Samian wine!”

But Byron chose to immortalize himself at the site itself as well, by carving his name on the nearest pillar in 1810. Which, unfortunately for all of us today, started a trend. This is one thing I was pretty annoyed about while observing the temple. I feel that doing things like that to these sacred and wonderful pieces of history (which should be protected and admired, not branded!), is completely disrespectful. And now, because of those selfish people who derogated the site, it is roped off to everyone, and you are not even allowed to get that close, or walk into the temple at all.

And also, while it was not very crowded (there were only about 5 other people on the entire site), I couldn’t help but feel a little jealous of someone like Lord Byron, who had the opportunity to visit the Temple before it was even excavated. Because while I know it is important to preserve things, I can’t imagine what an inspiring experience it would have been to sit there in the Temple and marvel at the power of the sea and the wind, and to see all the original carvings on the sides of the buildings. And most of all, to be able to take it all in while in complete solitude. It is the kind of place one could sit and think for hours, and while I did get some alone time (when I climbed all the way down to the bottom of the cliff to sit on the lowest terrace), it wasn’t the same. I wish I could have the opportunity to witness something that overwhelmingly inspirational.

Anyway, after I was finished making my initial observations of the Temple itself, I decided to venture all the way down the hill, to the very lowest outcrop of the rocky cliff side. And it was well worth it. The view was great, the wind was whipping, and it was a rather surreal experience. It was also nice to have time to sit and take in the entire atmosphere, and really just soak up the experience.



After that I climbed back up the hill, and decided to go pay a visit to all that is left of the Temple to Athena.





But when I got there, I came to realize that what was left was… not very much at all. All that’s still there is the outline of where the building used to be, along with a few statue bases. So after climbing back down from the ruins of Athena’s Temple, I decided to follow the advice in my handy-dandy Rough Guide to Greece guidebook and hike down to the coast, where there were supposedly a few coves along the shore line.

So I hopped over the guardrail along the side of the road, and made my way down to the sea. And as most of the situations I get into when traveling off the beaten path are, it was well worth it. I actually found the remains of some sort of structure which, (I’m assuming by its location), was some sort of port in the old days. And as I got closer to the water, I could see a few of the coves I had read about. It was really cool, and again, I was the only one in the entire area—which was nice. I love to have time to reflect on the things I am experiencing and the opportunity to just take everything in.

This would probably be a good time to address to fact that I have been traveling alone a lot since I’ve been here. Some people would claim that this is anti-social behavior, or that it isn’t smart or safe or worth it. But to anyone who thinks that, all I have to say is, have you ever traveled anywhere by yourself? Don’t get me wrong, it would be nice to have someone with me sometimes, (especially if it were someone I love.) But when faced with the decision to travel somewhere in a big group of Americans (who are loud and herd-like a lot of the time), I will always choose to go off on my own. Because not only do I meet some really interesting people when traveling alone, (for you are much more approachable when you are not in a huge group of people chattering on in English), but I also get to decide what I want to do, when I want to do it. And adventures (such as the one in which I hopped over the guard rail and traveled down to the sea), would not be possible with a group. So for everyone who is thinking that I must be some kind of an anti-social outcast, all I can say is that is a very misguided view. And I only have one thing to say to you: travel abroad. You will understand what I’m talking about.

Anyway, back to the story. While I was sitting down along the coast, I had completely lost track of the time, and when I finally checked my watch I realized that I only had 15 minutes until the bus to Athens was scheduled to leave! So I quickly threw all my stuff in my backpack and started jogging, (literally), up the mountain. When I finally got to the road (which was only about half way up to my final destination—the bus was meeting us at the entrance site for the Temple of Poseidon), the bus zoomed past me, and headed up the hill. And I was so afraid I was going to miss the bus, I sprinted, (again—literally), the whole way up the hill. (And yes, by the time I got to the top, I thought I was going to die.)

So panting, sweating and out of breath, I climbed on to the bus. But I made it! ☺

So all in all it was a really great experience, and turned out to be quite an adventure! And I feel so incredibly grateful that I have been able to have all these humbling interactions with the natural world while here in Greece. I am continually awed by the beauty and power of nature, and my journey to the Temple of Poseidon was probably the most intense of those experiences. The wind was ripping through my hair, and the waves were crashing violently against the cliffs, and it suddenly made perfect sense to me why the Ancient Greeks would feel the need to do anything they could to stay on the good side of the mighty sea god, Poseidon (who is known for his short temper and ferocious rage.)



Especially when keeping in mind the fact that the Greeks relied so heavily on all things that had to do with the sea. Travel, trade, warfare, etc. were all dependent on the success and safety of navigating the sea, which would only be possible with the grace of Poseidon.

And that is really what religion provides in almost every culture: explanation and comfort. As humans, people seek to understand things they can’t explain, find ways to feel as though they can manipulate things they can’t control, and find comfort in knowing that there is a possibility of something greater than themselves out there, which has the ability to intercede on their behalf.

And all religions serve this purpose (yes, I am comparing Christianity with Ancient Greek mythology & religion… you should hear me talk about the link between myth and religion, which I believe is particularly prevalent in modern day Christianity… I’ve accidentally offended several people already at this program with my views on the subject…)

But for the Ancient Greeks, the way they dealt with the danger and unpredictability of the sea and weather was by explaining it, and attributing blame by creating a god with a volatile temper, who was constantly making it challenging for them.

But likewise, by appealing to him, you would have a chance at safely accomplishing your goals on the sea. Thus, it provided both explanation and comfort in an area that we as humans really have no power to manipulate.





















I guess that’s enough philosophizing for now!

And I just want to say thank you to those of you who are reading, commenting, emailing and supporting me throughout this entire journey! It means more to me than you know!

-Summer Rose